I found a sort of beer garden on Kawaramachi Dori called "I ♥ ホルモン" (I Love Hormones? I Love Cow Innards? I Love Barbecued Meat? I don't know.) It is in the middle of the block, and on either side are tall buildings with slick, trendy shops. It is basically an undeveloped lot in a high-rent shopping district. It is decidedly lowbrow with grimy plywood sheets covering most of the gravel and dirt lot. Stacked beer crates with wood tabletops, and low metal and vinyl stools make up the seating. Traditional paper lanterns provide the lighting after dark. There is an open Oktoberfest-style kitchen serving inexpensive, mostly grilled grub. Kegs and crates of beer and Coca-Cola are stacked everywhere. Cheap pop music comes form the portable stereo. The place reminds me of the Gowanus Yacht Club in Carroll Gardens. Besides the wonderfully simple and unpretentious style of I ♥ ホルモン, the location affords one an incredible view of the beautiful Kyoto women parading by on Kawaramachi Dori. This area seems to be the Shibuya of Kyoto with the cool kids, or the young and fashionable walking up and down the boulevard looking cool and fashionable. Most of them regard I ♥ ホルモン with either disdain or mild curiosity as they move on to more popular and hip locales. This makes the place even cooler for me. I want to help these guys succeed. Maybe they are doing just fine. I may never know.
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