Chigasaki-kan (茅ヶ崎館 )

There is a direct route from the train station to the ryokan (inn), Chigasaki-kan (茅ヶ崎館), less than 20 minutes on foot.  That is not the one I took.  Of course.

I was greeted by the proprietress at the entrance, "ワァレス-さま ですか.  京都 から ね."  We shuffle around, down the exceedingly hot corridors.  She points out a few details related to their most famous guest, filmmaker Yasujiro Ozu (小津 安二郎) (1903-1963), and almost apologetically notes the era in which the building was built - Showa (1926-1989).  

The ryokan was founded much earlier than that, in 1899 by Shinjiro Mori.  For many years it was the only lodging in Chigasaki, standing alone in the coastal sand dunes.  Gradually it became popular as a resort, first with the kabuki crowd and later with film people.  Ozu first visited in 1937.  He became a regular after the War, often staying from autumn to spring.  Some of the scripts for his most famous films were written here including "Tokyo Story" (東京物語) and "Early Spring" (早春).  Chigasaki-kan is still a favorite haunt for writers and directors, among them the 2018 Palme d'Or winner Hirokazu Kore-eda (是枝 裕和).

Ozu always stayed in room number 2 at Chigasaki-kan.  This would be my room for two nights.  I couldn't believe my luck.  It is not a big room - just 8 tatami (approx.13 m2 / 140 ft2).  I expected a director of his stature to have a giant suite.  This says everything about his character.  His ego fit nicely in a standard 8-tatami room.  It was the view of the garden from this room that he loved.  I could understand why.  Though late summer, and past its peak, the garden is lovely.  Not exactly Japanese, but not exactly English.  An understated blend.  Through the garden and down some stairs, just 150 meters away is the beach.

I love early Showa-era architecture and design.  It's modern, but still very Japanese.  Chigasaki-kan is a wonderful example of this style.  The property is well cared for, but it is not pristine or overly precious.  It has not had a slick facelift and it doesn't try to hide its age.  Like movie stars of yesteryear, it has aged gracefully.  It is warm, comfortable.  It is wabi-sabi.

At dinner I am treated to a dance of fireflies in the garden.  A full moon floods the night sky.  If I listen closely, I can just hear the surf in the distance.  Yeah...Chigasaki-kan.  I understand, Ozu-さん.  I understand.