Sound is measured in decibels (dB). Rustling leaves measure around 20 decibels. Normal human conversation is between 50 and 65 dB. New York City street noise averages 73.4 dB. 120 dB is the threshold for discomfort, and 130 dB is actually painful.
Kyoto is a comparatively quiet city. But, even here, it can be difficult to find real peace, especially during peak tourist seasons. The most serene locale is frequently interrupted by the banal chatter of people, a distant car motor, an unexpected helicopter or even your own stupid thoughts.
After the Golden Week commotion, I decided to go looking for quiet. Actually, I knew exactly where I was going: Daihikaku Senkoji (大悲閣千光寺). It had been some time since I visited this little temple high above the Oi River (aka Hozu River) in Arashiyama.
It was, as I had hoped, completely empty. Just me and the lone attendant monk. There is a narrow veranda that encircles the main hall like a halo some 15 meters (49 feet) off the ground. Here I sat enjoying the spectacular view of the surrounding mountains and the city far in the distance. But more than the view, I was enjoying the absolute quiet. The most deafening sound came from the bamboo water spout dribbling into a tsukubai (washbasin), and the the Goshikimaku (Buddhist flag) twirling in the gentle breeze.
My meditative stupor was broken sometime later by a trio of young tourists. 5 minutes was their limit. Smartphones came out and mindless chitchat molested the tranquility of the afternoon.
An hour of noiseless bliss was all I was afforded, but for this I was grateful. It seemed a long time since Kyoto was so wonderfully quiet.
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